Day 78, Trichy [Tuesday 19th February 2008]
Previous day: Day 77, Madurai [Monday 18th February 2008]
Next day: Day 79, Tanjore [Wednesday 20th February 2008]
Early in the morning we climb the 600 steps of the Rock Fort Temple in Trichy. It's a temple unique in India for being split into 3 levels, with the sanctum sanctorum at the highest level.
There's a great view across Tamil Nadu from the peak. Plus the priest actually lets us inside, so we get to walk a circle around the deity, and get to see the view all the way around from the open windows! The view of Trichy's other temple is excellent.
When we descend we get dosas and coffee for breakfast then head off for Tanjore, a 2 hour bus ride away. Once there we check into an old Maharaja's guesthouse, which has been converted into a hotel. It's a bit creaky, but its bright and airy and holds some promise. It's set around a large, leafy courtyard, and has a grand staircase leading to wide verandas running the length of the inner perimeter of the building.
We walk down to the palace of the erstwhile Chola king Rajaraja. It has to be said it's quite bland an uninspiring. It suffers from the usual Indian problem of lack of documentation and information, absence of context and unsympathetic restoration. In this case it means that the murals have been 'repainted' by local artists, ugly security grills have been installed and the lack of ny furniture has left an inexplicably empty, echoing space.
There is, though, a fantastic collection of Chola bronzes, including a whole room full of Nataraja deities. There is also a library which is stuffed with esoteric etchings and maps collected by Rajaraja.
One other item that caught our attention was the 'woman's defence weapon cum betel nut cutter', which is plainly just a whacking great sword!
In the evening, once the baking heat has died down, we go to the impressive, World Heritage listed Big Temple. It has another, proper name, but everyone calls it Big Temple, which is fine by me. It was built by the 3rd Chola king, and is an spectacular feat of design and engineering. Carved from granite, it has a spacious, well-ordered feel. An informative exhibition within one of the corridors which line the temple in a square describes how architects think the Cholas might have managed to build the temple using fairly primitive engineering techniques. It also has reproductions of the intricate paintings and carvings which adorn the inside of the inner sanctum.
It was a royal temple, and the Cholas were great patrons of the arts. As such the temple contained the very best paintings and literature. The king even brought 400 dancing girls there and gave them their own accommodation.
As the sun went down, the beautiful golden gopurams light up so gorgeously it's enough to bring tears to your eyes.
Next day: Day 79, Tanjore [Wednesday 20th February 2008]
Previous day: Day 77, Madurai [Monday 18th February 2008]