Day 73, Periyar [Thursday 14th February 2008]
Previous day: Day 72, Kumily [Wednesday 13th February 2008]
Next day: Day 74, Periyar, [Friday 15th February 2008]
We take a long, hot hike up a hill overlooking the town, with views into Periyar National Park. We run into some trouble with the park security, who try to muscle us into signing up for a tour. We go round in circles a few times with the tourist office and the security guards. The tourist office shrug their shoulders and say,
"Yes, this is a problem. They are corrupt."
They ask us to write a letter to the Chief Minister or Tourism Department of Kerala state to complain, but suggest at the same time that it will inevitably be flatly ignored. It's infuriating, but we decide there's not much we can do about it right now, so carry on with our walk, making sure we keep outside of the seemingly arbitrary park boundaries.
Up on the hills people are drying small batches of coffee beans and pepper in the sun, laid out on sheets on the ground.
Back down at home our host brings us cups of sweet black coffee and bananas from her garden. That night she makes us another scrummy dinner, and her husband gives us a taste of his homebrew. It's dark brown, thick, and sweet like sherry.
Next day: Day 74, Periyar, [Friday 15th February 2008]
Previous day: Day 72, Kumily [Wednesday 13th February 2008]