Day 38, Belur, Halebid [Thursday 10th January 2008]
Previous day: Day 37, Belur [Wednesday 9th January 2008]
Next day: Day 39, Shravanabelagola [Friday 11th January 2008]
We get up early and go back to the temple here in Belur. It's already busy when we get there, even though the sun's just up. There is a queue of black clad Ayyappa pilgrims waiting for the morning ceremony. We walk around the temple in the hazy morning light, then squeeze inside with the crowd at 9am.
People are massed together in front of the sanctum sanctorum. A curtain is drawn across the opening, with Brahmins standing in front fidgeting with gold vessels, candles, flowers and who knows what else.
Then, suddenly, and with a dramatic flourish worthy of a TV magician, the curtain is pulled away to reveal the deity, seated, clothed and garlanded in the usual gaudy way. Bells rings, there's a loud cheer and vociferous prayers from the group, crammed shoulder to shoulder inside the narrow room. Two men at the back play drums and a squeaky, clarinet type instrument.
The sound is all engulfing, and the sight of the dressed deity, swathed in orange and gold robes, with a dagger hanging from a belt, is majestic. Once again I'm amazed by the forcefulness with which you are gripped, consumed by a heaving atmosphere and the infectious fervour of the assembled devotees. The Ayyappa guys are really friendly, grabbing me and pulling me into the throng to get a better view of God.
We get the bus to Halebid, where there is another Hoysala era temple, Hoysaleshawara temple. This one is even more intricately carved on the outside, with seven distinct layers. The sculptures of the gods are extravagant and plentiful and almost jumble into one another. There are also two huge monolithic Nandi bulls. We spend a few hours walking around, then head, via Belur to collect our bags, to Hassan, a dusty, unwelcoming transit town.
The women here wear fresh flowers in their hair, hundreds of tiny perfumed petals stitched together into long garlands with thread and trailed down their backs.
Next day: Day 39, Shravanabelagola [Friday 11th January 2008]
Previous day: Day 37, Belur [Wednesday 9th January 2008]