india travel diary 2007 to 2008

Arranged around a square are a number of temples.  A group of musicians are playing devotional songs loudly through a crackly PA, everything is gaudily coloured and brightly lit with strings of lightbulbs.  Thee is a tank, a temple elephant and two huge, lumbering wooden 'chariots'.  The square is full of people and noisy, and around 7.45pm the priests parade a small, metal deity around the tank in a canoe, then place it on a throne inside an ornate golden chariot.  Two competing groups of musicians then attempt to outdo each other with the forcefulness of their drumming.  A chugging diesel engine is started, and the massive chariot begins to trundle around the square, surrounded by devotees.  Fireworks are set off, bangers bang, cymbals crash, two great big papier mache soldiers held up by sticks are made to dance.  The atmosphere is holy and fevered.

There are men, women and children here, and everyone is friendly.  The chariots are pulled along on ropes by heaving groups of people.   After a full circuit of the square the deity is taken out and carried back into one of the temples.  We go inside.  It is dark and gloomy, lit by oil lamps.  Black walls and pillars line the room, and this place feels sacred and magical.

What an evening!  A man outside the Sri Krishna Mutt tells me to come back tomorrow so I can go inside, but I'll have to take my shirt off first.

Back at our hotel we get veg sandwiches and a bottle of beer for dinner.