Day 137, Agra, Taj Mahal, Agra Fort [Thursday 17th april 2008]
Previous day: Day 136, Agra, Taj Mahal [Wednesday 16th April 2008]
Next day: Day 138, Fatehpur Sikri, Sikandra [Friday 18th April 2008]
We set the alarm, get up early and walk around the corner to the Taj Mahal at 6.30am. The morning light is soft and hazy, the trinket and souvenir stalls are already open.
The large red sandstone gates open onto a spacious courtyard, with the south and west gates adjoining. Turn right and through the main gate the famous sight hits you immediately — a long, slim strand of water leads up to a high marble plinth, on top of which sits the white marble mausoleum, onion domed and flanked by four minarets.
It's like walking into a postcard. The view, the symmetry, the soft light and hazy glow are too perfect. I find that throughout our visit I struggle to see past the image of the Taj Mahal that I have in my head, to see the real thing, fresh and new and standing right in front of me. But I succeed by focusing on the details, unknowable from postcards or posters, of the 'pietra dura' inlay work, of how the calligraphy of the Qu'ran is also inlaid in black marble, of the delicately curved ridges of the lattice marble screens.
Around the raised plinth the floor is red sandstone, with white marble diamonds inlaid. In the early morning the marble is cold, and the floor feels wet against our bare feet.
On either side of the Taj are two huge red sandstone buildings. One is a mosque and the other its symmetrical, secular opposite. With white marble inlay work, and the morning sun pouring through its giant arches, the mosque is an impressive standalone structure; aligned with the gleaming eggshell mausoleum its burnt red shade heightens and offsets the Taj's statement of pure grief, beauty and love.
The gardens are shady, lush and peaceful. Much quieter than the main walkway, it's possible to feel almost alone wandering the cool pathways. It's hard to resist turning around for just one final look as we make our exit.
We get aloo paratha for breakfast, but the backpacker-friendly restaurants in Taj Ganj don't seem to have heard of pickle, or achar, or chutney.
Then we walk 2 kilometres to Agra Fort, a massive 16th century red sandstone structure built by Akbar, and later added to by his son Jehangir and grandson Shah Jehan. What started as a military installation eventually got turned into a palace, with intricate marble screenwork and formal gardens overlaid on the original, robust structure. The rooms where shah Jehan was imprisoned by his son, Aurangzeb, are exquisite. They have a poignant view of the Taj Mahal from the balcony, today surely looking almost identical to how it did then.
Uncluttered by any other buildings, the view crosses the Yamuna River and its undeveloped banks, broken only by the road immediately outside the fort. The pietra dura here is similar workmanship to the Taj, with flaral patterns inlaid in semi-prescious stones all around a fountain.
Looking for somewhere to eat dinner we get propositioned from the shadows of Taj Ganj with the offer of cold beer. Agreeing, we step upstairs, and find that that our host is a 12 year old boy. He's charming, and keeps the restaurant in good order. The food is pretty decent too - chilli cheese and something resembling a vegetable biryani. Afterwards we go over to the Amul shop for some pots of delicious, creamy ice cream.
Next day: Day 138, Fatehpur Sikri, Sikandra [Friday 18th April 2008]
Previous day: Day 136, Agra, Taj Mahal [Wednesday 16th April 2008]