Day 134, Lucknow [Monday 14th April 2008]
Previous day: Day 133, Varanasi to Lucknow [Sunday 13th April 2008]
Next day: Day 135, Lucknow [Tuesday 15th April 2008]
(photo by Harrison Jaffe) We have discovered that far fewer people speak English in the North, and particularly not waiters or rickshaw drivers.
After a big South Indian breakfast of utthapam and chai we go to the Bara Imambara (Big Tomb), an enormous, imposing building built in 1780 by Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula. It contains a huge central hall, 50 metres by 16m metres, filled with decorative chandaliers and rather tacky looking 'tazias', replicas of other people's tombs made in a Blue Peter style out of coloured paper and glue.
(photo by Japs - TheGypsy) Upstairs is a 'labyrinth' with great views from the roof over the surrounding area. Some equally impressive buildings are clustered together in this area — Aurangzeb's mosque, bright white against the clear blue sky; the Rumi Darwazi, a bizarre entrance gate copied from one in Istanbul; the Satkhanda, a scary watchtower whose name means 'seven storeys' but which has only four; a 67 metre high clocktower built in memory of a British governer of Uttar Pradesh, the state we're in, Sir George Couper; and the Hussainabad, or Chota, Imambara (Small Tomb). This last has a large water feature in front, flanked by two replicas of the Taj Mahal. Inside is festooned with an unfeasible number of chandaliers and other light fittings.
(photo by Japs - TheGypsy) We retreat back to the centre of Lucknow for iced coffee in the air-conditioned cool of Barista. We quickly realise that most of the shops are shut, which it turns out to be because today is Dr. Ambedkar Day. Ambedkar was the architect of the Indian constitution and an important Dalit rights leader. Further, many religious and regional festivals coincide today including Vishu, the Malayali new year, Bihu, the Assamese new year, and also a large Punjabi festival. So there are many reasons to celebrate.
(photo by Japs - TheGypsy) A huge floodlit wedding party is taking place near our hotel. Later on the news channels show the Uttar Pradesh Chief Minister Mayawati unveiling a new statue of Dr. Ambedkar in a park in Lucknow. She also, one might say immoedestly, unveils one of herself. On television there are debates about the lasting legacy of Dr. Ambedkar and his continuing relevancy, as opposed to what some view as Gandhi's irrelevance.
(photo by Japs - TheGypsy) For lunch Kate has a spicy, salty shami kebab, dum aloo and a fantastic nan — the wheat they use for bread in north seems to be of far higher quality than in the south. The breads up here are so good. On the train here from Varanasi we watched hour after hour of golden wheat fields rolling past the window, stretching to the horizon. I read in the paper that Uttar Pradesh grows 35% of India's entire wheat output! For my lunch I have samosas and muttar tikki — mushy peas with a chilli hidden in the middle.
(Rumi Darwazi photo by Himalayan Trails)
Next day: Day 135, Lucknow [Tuesday 15th April 2008]
Previous day: Day 133, Varanasi to Lucknow [Sunday 13th April 2008]