Day 133, Varanasi to Lucknow [Sunday 13th April 2008]
Previous day: Day 132, Varanasi [Saturday 12th April 2008]
Next day: Day 134, Lucknow [Monday 14th April 2008]
We wake up a bit late as my alarm failed to go off. But Moon has waited for us by his boat. We hop in a this time he rows us south. It's 6am and the sun has just come up, a perfect orange ball on the horizon. The pale blue water is lit by a watery, soft glow. Dasaswamedh Ghat is alive with activity, the steps full of brightly coloured bathers, mostly women. They submerge themselves in the water, still wearing their saris. A brahmin performs a puja with a large bowl of fire, atop a platform nearby.
The next ghat is full of men and boys, swimming, diving off the steps, some with makeshift buoys tied around their bodies. The water is full of people swimming, splashing and bathing, the surface is covered in thick, foamy lather. Gap toothed women brush their remaining teeth standing waist deep in the water.
Moon points out a ghat wich South Indians typically head to, and another which is popular with Muslims. There is a large Muslim neighbourhood behind the ghat, and although the river Ganges may no be holy to them they still do come here to bathe. And feed the fish, says Moon.
People are massed on the opposite, sandy bank, and Moon says many go there as they believe the water is cleaner.
It's an amazing sight to see the river so alive and joyous with people and activity. It's completely transformed from when we saw it previously at midday. Puling up close to the shore we thanks Moon and head ff for some breakfast.
Later we go back down to Assi ghat, to Haifa Hotel, for more of their yummy Lebanese food. On the way we pass a government 'bhang' shop, which is licensed to sell marijuana for 'religious ceremony' purposes.
Then we catch our train to Lucknow. Varanasi has been an intriguing place, slow to reveal its secrets yet totally open and transparent when it does. The expected opresssiveness and tourist overload failed to materialize, as did much hassle or uncleanliness. On this evidence Varanasi appears to have an ill-deserved bad reputation.
In Lucknow we have dinner at Nawab's, acompanied by soft music.
Next day: Day 134, Lucknow [Monday 14th April 2008]
Previous day: Day 132, Varanasi [Saturday 12th April 2008]