Day 128, Bodhgaya [Tuesday 8th April 2008]
Previous day: Day 127, Patna, Bodhgaya [Monday 7th April 2008]
Next day: Day 129, Bodhgaya [Wednesday 9th April 2008]
In the morning we look around several of the monasteries and temples that Buddhist nations have built here, in the vernacular style of their country. So, the Tibetan temple is similar to those we saw in Sikkim, with detailed murals and psychedelic butter sculptures. The Daijokyo temple is austere, with minimum ornamentation within a plain, almost severe building. Just around the corner this same temple has erected a huge Buddha statue, over 80 feet high. It's made up of a multitude of shaped stone blocks. With his drooping eyelids the Buddha sure looks lost in nirvana.
The Royal Bhutan temple has thick, three-dimensional walls, the paint and plaster protruding inches into the room as part of the murals. It's like standing next to a big iced birthday cake.
Then we go to the Mahabodhi Temple, a memorial built by Asoka at the location where the Buddha gained enlightenment, sat beneath a peepul tree c.600 BC. The temple is impressive, and there are monks and others meditating and praying inside. It soars over the comparitively humble real attraction — the descendant of the original Boddhi tree which sits at the centre of this whole complex.
It is surrounded now by iron railings, and the railings are draped with silks and beads, candles and other offerings. There is a serene and respectful atmosphere, so quiet you can hear dozens of birds tweeting in the trees all around.
The whole complex is a couple of acres in size, and there are several locations where Buddha is supposed to have continued his meditation in the lead up to and following his achieving enlightenment. There is a lake, another notable tree — where we sit and listen to a red-robed monk intone prayers from a book while sitting on a red sik draped throne — and a cloister where the Buddha walked up and down repeatedly while pondering 'the causal law'. The ground is so hot it burns our bare feet.
We have lunch nearby, where our veg. sandwiches come deep-fried. Then we go to the Indosan Nipponji (Japanese Temple) for an hour of Zen meditation. The temple is a beautiful wooden structure with a traditional curved roof. Inside are some interesting murals and Japanese ink drawings of wildlife, cranes and other birds. We sit on plump round cushions and a Japanese monk explains what to do. Then he sits in front of a big, resonating gong and intones deeply, in Japanese, while we try not to fidget too much. It's a refreshing moment of calm. The wind blows softly through the open doors.
We go back to the Mahabodhi Temple when it's dark, about 8.30pm. The comple is gently illuminated, and there's a sweet, exquisitely calm atmosphere here. Monks sit in groups on the shadowy lawns, teaching, learning, discussing. Visitors walk around the perimeter of the gardens. Close to the Boddhi tree people are meditating, circumambulating the temple. It's a unique and special place, and I feel privileged to be able to sit here for a while.
Next day: Day 129, Bodhgaya [Wednesday 9th April 2008]
Previous day: Day 127, Patna, Bodhgaya [Monday 7th April 2008]