Day 111, Chopta Valley, Sikkim [Saturday 22nd March 2008]
Previous day: Day 110, Lachen [Friday 21st March 2008]
Next day: Day 112, Yumthang Valley [Sunday 23rd March 2008]
After a freezing cold night in Lachen we go on a spectacular drive up to Chopta Valley — the stark, snow-capped mountains rising on either side of the valley, rhododendrons and yaks dotting the misty hills. It's cold and crisp. We pass through numerous army checkpoints where Sanchai leaves copies of our Sikkim permit. Given the military sensitivity up here — Tibet and China are just over the mountains — we aren't allowed to explore very far, and we also have to be careful what we take pictures of.
The beauty of Sikkim is spoilt only by the innumerable signs, boards and posters erected everywhere to proclaim Sikkim's unspoilt beauty, urging you to keep it beautiful. Another irritant, and occasional entertainment, are the endless blustering slogans put up by the Border Roads Organisation: "God built, we maintain", "We defy death to serve the nation".
Sanchai gives us some background on the state of Sikkim — the farmers receive massive government subsidies to live here and effectively act as a human buffer betweens 'plains' India and the Chinese. So long as the subsidies continue, he says, then the people will be happy. There are only around 700,000 people in the whole of Sikkim. It certainly appears to be very sparsely populated. The Lepchas, the original inhabitants of Sikkim, were animists, worshipping nature gods such as lakes and mountains, and they continue to do so. For this reason many of the mountains and other areas are not open for trekking. When Kanchenjunga was scaled, the climbers did not step on the very peak, out of respect for the Lepcha beliefs.
On the drive across to Lachung we hit a landslide which has completely blocked the road. It seems to be a common occurence. We climb over the rubble and decide to walk on, and let the jeep catch us up later. We walk a great route through the trees and numerous waterfalls. Eventually Neema catches up with us, having swapped jeeps with someone on the other side of the landslide.
At Lachung we check into the Modern Tours Hotel, a spectacular place built to resemble a monastery! It's still freezing cold, but someone sneaks a heater into our room for us, and gives us hot water bottles too.
For dinner we have all-traditional Tibetan food — noodle soup, momos and chips.
Next day: Day 112, Yumthang Valley [Sunday 23rd March 2008]
Previous day: Day 110, Lachen [Friday 21st March 2008]